Actually, being able to tell the difference is not very hard...you do not need to be an expert. There are many signs that let you know if a piece is a genuine antique, fake or a reproduction before you buy antique furniture. If you do your research beforehand and look carefully at each piece, you'll be able to quickly spot fakes or reproductions based on several factors; wood, patina, style, etc.
From the 18th Cetury on, most furniture designers marked their pieces with either a signature or label. But, there are some pieces that do not have these marks and if so, we need to find other signs in order to measureage.
Here are several tips to help you...
* Style is one very important factor to determine a piece's age. Knowing the different elements used in various styles will greatly help in determining age. This can be done by research and study, and actually seeing antique furniture by visiting shops, historic homes or museums and viewing the different styles before you buy antique furniture.
* Wood is also critical in measuring a piece's age. You need to be able to recognize different types of wood and know in which period of history each was used. Also take note of carving; oak was a relatively difficult wood to carve - but as walnut and mahogany became popular, carving the wood became easier and finer and more intricate carvings are found. If a piece has the original carved decoration, it greatly adds to it's desirability. Some pieces were embellished later with carving and are much less desirable than those with original carvings.
* Patina is a very telling factor becuse it shows actual wear and use that is extremely difficult to fake, although many fake antique furniture makers try.
* Proportions are fundamental in recognizing the quality of a piece and determining it's correct. A piece that appears heavy at the top, or has legs that are out of proprtion may well be a "marriage" (two separate pieces that did not originally belong together is termed a "marriage"). The married parts may be from a the same or a similar period, or one of the parts may be from a later period. Marriages are much less desirable than pieces with all original parts, and in original condition. Carefully examine before you buy antique furniture to make sure it isn't a marriage.
* Alterations done to antique furniture makes the piece less desirable than if it were left in its original condition. Among the most common alterations are large pieces which have been reduced in size, have freshly cut surfaces, repositioned handles, or plugged holes.
* Feet are very useful in dating and recognizeing a particular style. However, because centuries of standing on damp floors takes it's tole and often causes feet to rot, many have been replaced. Comparing the wood of the feet with the rest of the piece will help to decide whether or not they're original.
* Construction is another way to tell: early furniture was constructed using mortise-and-tenon joints held together by wood pegs or dowels, instead of glue or screws. This method was used until the late 17th century. Pegs were handmade and stand slightly above the surface. Machine-made pegs that were made later are perfectly symmetrical, and are either flush with the surface or slightly recessed. From the early 18th century, joints were dovetailed and glued, and until the end of the 18th century, when the circular saw was introduced, all wood was sawn by hand and shows straight saw marks. After 1800 circular marks can be visible on the surface of unfinished wood.
* Joints can help you to Recognize different kinds of antique furniture and can also help you in determining the quality of a piece. If you discover that a chair is constructed using mortise and -tenon joints as opposed to dowel construction, for example, you can be sure it's a high-quality chair. The same is true about furniture with dovetail construction on the drawers as opposed to rabbet-joint drawers. Dovetails are better joints and will last indefinitely. Dovetails are the triangular joints that fit together on the corners of drawers. They became progressively finer as time passed and can help with dating a piece. Drawers had channels in their sides and, until the 18th century, ran on runners set into the body. Some drawers ran on the dust boards and had no runners. From the Queen Anne period the runners were placed under the drawer at the sides and ran on bearers placed on the inside of the body.
* Screws will determine age...the earlier the screw, the cruder it will be. The groove on old screws tends to be off-centre and the top irregular. The thread is also irregular and open and, unlike modern screws, runs the entire length of the shank.
* Locks that are early are usually made of wrought iron and held in place with iron nails. From the 18th century, locks were steel or brass and secured with steel screws. Locks are often replaced and, although this isn't a serious issue, it's better to have original locks.
* Drawer pulls and handles can provide a useful clue to dating, because styles changed from period to period. It's common to find pieces with replaced handles and, like locks, it's preferable to have handles that blend with the rest of the piece. From 1960 handles were secured by pommels and nuts. Antique pommels were hand cast in a single piece of brass. The thread goes only half way up the shank, and the remainder of the shank is square-shaped. Modern pommels are made from brass heads with steel shanks and the thread runs the whole length of the shank. The nuts used to attach drawer pulls and handles in the 18th century were circular and slightly irregular. You can recognize modern nuts if they are regular and hexagonal.
Learning how to recognize antique furniture is a very broad field, professionals often specialize in a certain style or period from a certain region or country. However, you can look for general knowledge on the subject or drill down further to find the smallest detail about a certain period or styl you are interested in...it's all up to you as to far you want to go.
From the 18th Cetury on, most furniture designers marked their pieces with either a signature or label. But, there are some pieces that do not have these marks and if so, we need to find other signs in order to measureage.
Here are several tips to help you...
* Style is one very important factor to determine a piece's age. Knowing the different elements used in various styles will greatly help in determining age. This can be done by research and study, and actually seeing antique furniture by visiting shops, historic homes or museums and viewing the different styles before you buy antique furniture.
* Wood is also critical in measuring a piece's age. You need to be able to recognize different types of wood and know in which period of history each was used. Also take note of carving; oak was a relatively difficult wood to carve - but as walnut and mahogany became popular, carving the wood became easier and finer and more intricate carvings are found. If a piece has the original carved decoration, it greatly adds to it's desirability. Some pieces were embellished later with carving and are much less desirable than those with original carvings.
* Patina is a very telling factor becuse it shows actual wear and use that is extremely difficult to fake, although many fake antique furniture makers try.
* Proportions are fundamental in recognizing the quality of a piece and determining it's correct. A piece that appears heavy at the top, or has legs that are out of proprtion may well be a "marriage" (two separate pieces that did not originally belong together is termed a "marriage"). The married parts may be from a the same or a similar period, or one of the parts may be from a later period. Marriages are much less desirable than pieces with all original parts, and in original condition. Carefully examine before you buy antique furniture to make sure it isn't a marriage.
* Alterations done to antique furniture makes the piece less desirable than if it were left in its original condition. Among the most common alterations are large pieces which have been reduced in size, have freshly cut surfaces, repositioned handles, or plugged holes.
* Feet are very useful in dating and recognizeing a particular style. However, because centuries of standing on damp floors takes it's tole and often causes feet to rot, many have been replaced. Comparing the wood of the feet with the rest of the piece will help to decide whether or not they're original.
* Construction is another way to tell: early furniture was constructed using mortise-and-tenon joints held together by wood pegs or dowels, instead of glue or screws. This method was used until the late 17th century. Pegs were handmade and stand slightly above the surface. Machine-made pegs that were made later are perfectly symmetrical, and are either flush with the surface or slightly recessed. From the early 18th century, joints were dovetailed and glued, and until the end of the 18th century, when the circular saw was introduced, all wood was sawn by hand and shows straight saw marks. After 1800 circular marks can be visible on the surface of unfinished wood.
* Joints can help you to Recognize different kinds of antique furniture and can also help you in determining the quality of a piece. If you discover that a chair is constructed using mortise and -tenon joints as opposed to dowel construction, for example, you can be sure it's a high-quality chair. The same is true about furniture with dovetail construction on the drawers as opposed to rabbet-joint drawers. Dovetails are better joints and will last indefinitely. Dovetails are the triangular joints that fit together on the corners of drawers. They became progressively finer as time passed and can help with dating a piece. Drawers had channels in their sides and, until the 18th century, ran on runners set into the body. Some drawers ran on the dust boards and had no runners. From the Queen Anne period the runners were placed under the drawer at the sides and ran on bearers placed on the inside of the body.
* Screws will determine age...the earlier the screw, the cruder it will be. The groove on old screws tends to be off-centre and the top irregular. The thread is also irregular and open and, unlike modern screws, runs the entire length of the shank.
* Locks that are early are usually made of wrought iron and held in place with iron nails. From the 18th century, locks were steel or brass and secured with steel screws. Locks are often replaced and, although this isn't a serious issue, it's better to have original locks.
* Drawer pulls and handles can provide a useful clue to dating, because styles changed from period to period. It's common to find pieces with replaced handles and, like locks, it's preferable to have handles that blend with the rest of the piece. From 1960 handles were secured by pommels and nuts. Antique pommels were hand cast in a single piece of brass. The thread goes only half way up the shank, and the remainder of the shank is square-shaped. Modern pommels are made from brass heads with steel shanks and the thread runs the whole length of the shank. The nuts used to attach drawer pulls and handles in the 18th century were circular and slightly irregular. You can recognize modern nuts if they are regular and hexagonal.
Learning how to recognize antique furniture is a very broad field, professionals often specialize in a certain style or period from a certain region or country. However, you can look for general knowledge on the subject or drill down further to find the smallest detail about a certain period or styl you are interested in...it's all up to you as to far you want to go.
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